It may be enjoyable to sew but certain methods are more difficult than others, particularly if you want to produce anything that demands more than simply a straight line.
With a closer look at a napkin, tablecloth, curtain or quilt’s mitered corners, you’ll see how they made the corners so flawless.
The bulk that may build up when numerous layers of cloth are sewn together can be reduced by using this approach. Although it seems complicated, the procedure is pretty simple.
Mitered corners may be achieved with a few easy steps, the correct equipment, and a little amount of patience.
We’ll go through the two methods for making mitered corners one at a time.
Using the Topstitching Approach
Step #1
A 1/4-to-3/8-inch fold in the raw edge of the cloth toward the wrong side is appropriate (this is your hem allowance and it will depend on your project). Then use an iron to press the fold.
The raw edge on the other side should be processed in the same manner.
There will be a little of extra heft in the corners because of this fold. Depending on how much overlap there is, you may have to iron the corner a little longer than with the initial fold.
Step #2
Fold your initial fold in towards the wrong side of the cloth and repeat the process.
The standard fold measurement is one inch, however if your project calls for a fold that is less or larger, no problem. Step one’s first fold measurement should take that into consideration; a larger first fold is required for a larger border, while a smaller first fold is required for a smaller border.
For each hem, begin by folding in half and then pressing it flat. The hems will need to be pressed at the corners just as previously.
In the end, you can see where we’re headed.
Step #3
Now it’s time to reveal everything. Each side of the folds will leave you with two crease lines, one on each side. Never fear, this is exactly what we intend.
Step #4
Take note of the crossing creases on each of the neighboring sides, then look for the center square.
Mark a line across the corners of the centre square using a pencil or a fabric pen/chalk, then continue the line across the cloth.
A triangle will be formed by your fabric’s line and two edges.
Step #5
Trim along the dotted line with your scissors (cut off that triangle you just formed).
Step #6
Your new angled edge (the one you just cut) should be folded in so that the creases match up on the wrong side of the cloth.
Because you don’t want the other creases to be smoothed out, you may not want to press this fold with your iron. A firmly pressed finger should be plenty.
If you plan on using an iron, be very cautious.
Step #7
Use an iron to push the edges back inwards along the initial fold you formed.
After that, fold and push along your second crease, exactly like you did in step two. You’ll notice that the corner of your screen folds in on itself.
Is your heart racing yet? It’s time to put the pins and needle to the test. Nearly finished!
Step #8
Your sewing machine is waiting for you to finish pinning the edges and corner down.
Make careful to leave enough space for the seam allowance while sewing the inside fold. With a 14-inch seam allowance, you should be able to sew the two folded sides of the cloth together neatly.
Method of Sewing and Topstitching
This method of mitering a corner is more durable and can withstand greater abuse. This approach may be appropriate if the final product is intended to be used on a regular basis.
Step #1
You may begin by dividing the amount of hem allowance you have into two halves.
There are two options here: split it equally or, for an even wider completed hem, divide it in half. If your hem allowance is an inch, you may divide it in half again, or in quarters and thirds, respectively.
Step #2
On both corners of your hem, fold and push (with an iron) half of your hem allowance (12-inch in this example) toward the wrong side.
First, press the hem that is smaller than the rest of the garment.
Step #3
Fold and press the wrong side of the cloth towards the other half of your hem allowance (another 12-inch in this example).
Fold and press the greater portion of your hem if you split it unevenly.
Step #4
Make sure that the creases on your corner match the creases on the second fold by unfolding just the second fold and then folding the corner in toward the incorrect side.
Unfold after pressing this fold. Using a pencil or fabric chalk, you may mark this crease for future reference.
Step #5
Using the wrong sides out, fold your cloth in half so that the outside edges are aligned with each other. Check to see if the most recent crease you produced (the one you may have highlighted) is parallel to itself through all of these layers. Make sure this is the case.
Pin the corner and then sew across the crease (across the line you indicated), backstitching at the beginning and finish to secure the stitch in place.
Step #6
Keep an allowance of around 14-inch on each side of your stitch. The top corner should also be clipped somewhat.
Use a point turner or a seam ripper to gently push the corner out of the way.
Step #7
Topstitch along the inside fold, pivoting around the corners, as shown in the illustration. This is the end of the procedure. Isn’t it easier than you expected? Quilts need a somewhat different approach, but the steps are the same. Look around.
Step #1
A slightly modified version of the Sewn and Topstitched equation may serve as a starting point.
Measure the quilt’s side-length. Add two to the width of the border you’re planning on adding to your quilt.
Then add six inches to accommodate for the additional fabric that is required for the mitered corner. So the equation will look something like this:
Quilt borders need to be 6 inches long for each side, calculated as follows: L (side length) + (border width x2) + 6 inches
Using this method, you can determine how long to cut the cloth for your border.
Step #2
Mark the middle of the border and the quilt top after they have been folded in half. Pin the two halves together, lining up the centers.
Start by pinning the quilt and border’s ends together. Then, work your way around the quilt and border, aligning them up as you go.
Step #3
Stitch the border to the quilt top using your sewing machine, staying approximately 14 inch away from the quilt top’s edge as you sew.
You ensure the stitch is firm, be sure to backstitch both the beginning and the end of the stitch.
You may do this for each of the four borders.
Step #4
Fold the quilt in half diagonally, with the correct sides facing each other, to make it easier to work with. This will provide the illusion of a triangular shape.
Make a 45-degree angle between two adjoining borders (such as the top and the right-side border for example) by lining them up on top of each other.
Grab a pencil/fabric chalk and a ruler after the boundaries are aligned. Using the 45-degree angle of the quilt top, stretch the ruler across the borders. “
Pin the two borders it crosses in place once you’ve drawn the angle onto the border. You may now begin sewing!
Step #5
Find the line of stitches you created when you stitched the border to the quilt top and begin stitching exactly there on your sewing machine. Make sure that there are no gaps on the front by doing this.
It’s best to follow the pencil lines as closely as possible while sewing. This may need some tinkering around the edges. It’s okay if you need a little more time.
Unfold your quilt top when you’ve finished backstitching.
Make sure there are no holes in your design and that your border is level. If they do, you’re ready for the next stage in the process.
Step #6
Using a pair of scissors, trim the extra from the border to 1/4′′ and press the seam. Repeat these processes with the other three corners – and then rejoice. It’s done!
It’s easy to make milted edges on napkins by watching this video!
Pressing the folds and hems is essential, no matter what technique you’re using or what you’re mitering (you could probably tell).
You must be able to see the fold lines in order to know where to stitch and where to mark.
Using a pencil or fabric chalk, mark all of your folds if you’re concerned about making a mistake. The point is to enjoy yourself, but don’t forget to laugh. That’s what this whole thing is about.
FAQ
What is mitered corner?
The term “Mitered Corner” refers to when two edges meet at a 45-degree angle, resulting in a 90-degree angle. When it comes to binding and borders, mitering the corners is a common practice among quilters. Mitered borders are essentially a variation on the y-seam method. Because of the way certain fabrics are designed, mitering is a good option for them.
What is the best way to stitch a border around a quilt?
Place the border along the side of the quilt with the right sides together and the midpoints matching, right sides facing each other. Pin through both layers of fabric at the match to prevent the textiles from moving around. To finish the border, match and pin one end to the bottom edge of the quilt’s bottom edge, and then match and pin the other end to the quilt’s other border edge.
How much extra fabric do I need for mitered corners?
Mitered borders demand double the amount of fabric in the corners as straight borders. The total length of a butted border is equal to two widths plus two lengths plus four corners. The total length of a mitered border is equal to two widths plus two lengths plus eight corners. Numerical border length divided by fabric width, with each whole strip being rounded up to the next whole strip = number of strips
What kind of fabric do you use for napkins?
Fine linen is often used in the production of elegant napkins and tablecloths. Broadcloth and other cotton or polyester fabrics, such as poplin, gabardine, gauze, oxford cloth, and osnaburg, may be used to create more informal napkins for special occasions. If you want a printed cloth for your napkins, quilting cottons and gingham checks are excellent choices.
